Mexico

Stuck in San Cris…

San Cristobal de las Casas, or San Cris, as known by its citizens, was one of our favourite stays so far and we got a little bit stuck there (for 9 days). A simple google images search would be enough to see why. The cobbled paths and colonial buildings exude charm but the place is also slightly ramshackle, disorganised and a little scruffy in a quintessentially Mexican way adding to it’s laid back feel.

The cities  international presence is certainly felt when exploring the various food options. From Undici Pizzeria to Bangcook’s Thai food, we had the impression that any appetite could be satisfied in this relatively small city. However, what was really interesting was eating at some of the Zapatista supporting cafe’s and restaurants, which provide support for the militant separatist socialist movement which 10 years after the civil war is still alive and well in Chiapas.

Every day had a new activity, as the options were many; we could wonder to the artisan market, or visit one of the many, many museums sharing the treasures of Chiapas – our favourite being the Amber Museum. Or climb the steps up to the viewpoints, including Guadalupe Church, to see the city from up high, or venture further to natural attractions like El Chiflón waterfall or El Sumidero Canyon.

We originally visited in late November, and ended up re-visiting after a volunteering project in early December, so we got to see the city light up with Christmas decorations and various religious parades for la Señora de Guadalupe. These ‘desfiles’ were a collection of local people, Mariachi bands, confetti and little girls in the most colourful and flamboyant dresses, and lots, lots of loud ‘bombas’ and firecrackers, which we later found out were being used to ward off bad spirits. Visual effects such as fireworks are saved for the most special occasions like Christmas Eve or New Year’s festivities.

In both options and value, San Cristobal is renown as a good place to buy handmade individual textiles and jewellery.  The Santo Domingo artisan market is one of the biggest and cheapest, with room to bargain with the locals for the beautiful Chiapas embroideries, amber and jade jewellery or leather goods, including cuffs, belts or machete sheaths.

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